Imagine the collective groans let out by the guests when they found out that the upcoming spring collection for Sapto Djojokartiko was scheduled to start at ten in the morning. But arrived for the show they did last Thursday at Istora Senayan. It was certainly a clever choice to stage the show at the stadium when the memory of the euphoric Asian Games was still fresh on everyone’s mind. Plus, it wasn’t just another show. It was also a celebration of the designer’s eponymous label tenth year anniversary.
Still, that doesn’t mean Sapto was going to revisit his archive and update them for the current moment. It felt more like a progression from his recent shows from a few seasons ago, which was characterised by soft diaphanous dresses with loose silhouette that graze the floor. Once the show started, it’s clear why it was staged at Istora Senayan.
The first look was a white t-shirt with “saptodjojokartiko” emblazoned prominently across the chest (limited to only 50 pieces, by the way) and drawstring shorts complete with sporty jacket. Even though looks for much younger clientele only lasted for about the first quarter of the show, it’s clear that Sapto was honing in on comfort and movement. Legs were on display and you can even run and jump in them with ease.
Sapto also injected a mini collection of menswear that provided a nice break to the otherwise large show. Male models came out in embroidered sweaters, coats as well as drawstring shorts like a posse of gay best friends to the women. And that was not necessarily a bad thing at all. Although there were plenty of long dresses on display towards the second half of the show, the memory of model Reti Ragil in killer low v-neck jacket dress with embroidered panels at the side triumphed. Mostly because you could immediately visualise it in a cocktail party setting, turning many heads.
Unfortunately, the show was brought down by ill-fitting shoes that were just too hard to ignore. A pair of kitten heels came apart halfway down the runway and plenty of toes were hanging dishearteningly over the edge of platform sandals.
At the end of the show, models came out with transparent umbrellas. Perhaps they signify the label’s readiness for the tumultuous time ahead. Or maybe they meant something else altogether. But what is clear is that achieving tenth year anniversary is not an easy job and it’s definitely a milestone worth celebrating. After all, how many designers can claim to even last that long?
