It’s been more than three years since TANGAN’s last runway show. Still, during the pandemic-induced show hiatus, Zico Halim and Margaretha Novianty have been keeping themselves busy with collaboration projects as well as a pop-up exhibition in 2021 that invited visitors to breathe new life into their old and forgotten clothing.
The break, it turned out, has been beneficial in sharpening the designers’ offerings for their 2024 spring presentation. Right from the first look––a black backless halter top with a high boat neckline and black cigarette pants with front closures peeled to reveal a thin band of waist stay—a new attitude is swiftly established.
There’s a shift from past collections where the women of TANGAN seemed to dress to impress. Here, they are more assured in who they are and how they present themselves to the world. In short, they have grown up, and with it comes a lifestyle that encompasses both work and leisure.
The clearest instance is the vest top worn with an Iguana green skirt featuring holes that appeared to be punched with a paper puncher over pants, alluding to life in the office. In another, a sleeveless jacket accentuated with cross stitch to give the illusion of an unfinished garment is paired with black cropped pants with outer pockets.
The deconstructed jacket, worn with the silver ‘holey’ blouse and denim pants with back pockets placed at the front so that they sit high on the thighs, showed the designers are also capable of keeping things playful and elevated at the same time.
At the show venue, pillars were adorned with colourful foam pieces that were folded and affixed with broad straps that appeared like a wall sculpture installation. They resemble the works of Australian artist Tan Arlidge, who is known for her fluid sculptural works that provide viewers with the urge to reach out and feel. In a similar vein, this collection has expanded the character of the women of Tangan and with it, an inquisitive curiosity about their lives.
The only chink in the armour is the seductive red cutout dress that felt out of place from the entire collection. Nevertheless, it proved that both Zico and Margaretha can do sexy if they want to—inviting viewers into imagining that possibility.
