After five days of endless air kisses, cocktails and selfies, Plaza Indonesia Men’s Fashion Week finally came to a close. While there were always a theme to be extracted from the line-up of brands on the first four day, the last day came across as vague. Despite a lack of a definitive thread that linked these brands together, each of their intended messages was clear.
Let’s face the fact; Columbia – a sportswear apparel brand – doesn’t sell fashion. What it does sell is practical outdoor apparel that places emphasis on comfort, functionality and endurance. And that point was made clear on the runway. T-shirts were thin and tight to resemble a second skin; Outerwear came in waterproofed fabric and lightweight. Fancier pieces can be found in quilted jacket with fur-lined hood.
Perhaps, noticing the lack of “fashion” in this collection, theatrical antics were employed in order to justify them. And that was when the collection headed for the south. Models came out with fishing pole, water bottle and even smartphone to pull a mini stunt at the end of the runway. Instead of focusing on that, perhaps more emphasis should be placed on the styling itself instead.
Established only since 2013, Adamist has already steadily gained a strong following in Jakarta’s menswear scene. Even though the collection featured plenty of shirts, jackets and pants, don’t be fooled into thinking that they were made for the office. Instead, the collection gravitated heavily towards eveningwear.
Sharp lines and geometric shapes dashed vertically, horizontally and even diagonally across the torso to highlight the body of its wearer. All of the pants were also cropped to allow a peek of the models’ ankles. In jackets, the distances between lapels were kept far apart and the button hung low around belly button. Why? To better show off that chest that you’ve been working so hard for!
More elaborate eveningwear came in suit jackets that featured Swarovski crystals and intricate Spanish lace. But designer, Jacky Rusli kept the look clean and controlled by planting the details only on the shoulder and the sleeves. Though some of the looks recalled Dior Homme’s collection a few seasons ago, Jacky has successfully established the Adamist’s identity in a short amount of time.
The last show, Ermenegildo Zegna closed the night with a powerful collection that was also equally emotionally provoking. The theme of formal and informal formed an interesting duality in the collection. Stefano Pilati beautifully merged the formal with sportswear resulting in looks that are at once elegance and sporty: fine wool and cashmere were paired with British hunting covert fabrics.
Standout looks include suit with long flowing scarf that spilled out elegantly underneath the suit jacket and sporty coat tied across the chest to resemble a protective cape. Stefano proved that elegance and sportiness do not have to be mutually exclusive. The two, when put together, offered up a much more in-depth definition of the modern man. And the collection was made even more moving because of it.
The five days Men’s Fashion Week provoked questions and provided some answers. Why should you care? Because, all in all, if the saying is true, and that clothes made the man, then perhaps it’s time for men to take fashion more seriously.