While browsing through the schedule of this year Jakarta Fashion Week, it’s not hard to notice a rise in numbers of new labels by both emerging and big designers as well as the absence of established designers like Vinora and Oscar Lawalata. As such, it will be an interesting week to see whether the new designers would seize this chance to make a name for themselves or dissolve into oblivion by the next fashion week.
I.K.Y.K’s designer, Anandia Marina Putri Harahap concocted a tale of a rural coastal village inhabited by lionhearted female pirates and fisherwomen. Volume and layering played a major role in this collection. To wit, a white long sleeve top is worn under a grey “sackcloth” coat and cinched at the waist with a wide sash.
As a Muslim, Anandia is automatically categorised under the category of “Modest Wear” designer, which is basically another name for Muslim Wear. However, the designer managed to escape the trappings of typical Modest Wear through the use of a compelling narrative in the collection. There are also plenty of wearable pieces once you pick apart the looks from the runway.
Anandia also sent her models out in various headwraps, some of them in wide headbands with scruffy hair spilled out at the back, while some completely swathed under a head covering. With that gesture, Anandia is effectively reaching out to both her Muslim and Non-Muslim followers. The collection also subconsciously raised an important question: is Modest Wear exclusively reserved for the Muslims?
Those who followed local label, shopatvelvet, closely would probably be aware of its higher end line, byvelvet. Sticking closely to the formula of shopatvelvet, byvelvet’s debut collection consisted of plenty wearable and staple pieces. It is a commercially viable collection, which means the colours used in the collection, like burnt orange and moss green, are subdued and easy to match.
As much as the collection is wearable and desirable, it lacked surprise and only screamed out, “Buy me! Wear me!”. Designers, Yessi Kusumo and Randy W. Sastra, have wasted a perfect chance to convey a significant message with this debut collection for byvelvet.
In what seemed like a move of mercy by Tex Saverio, the designer has finally unveiled a secondary line named TX ID for his loyal fans who couldn’t afford the costly main line. From skirt with laser-cut hem, crop top, leather pants to printed dress, it is clear that TX ID is aimed at the younger clienteles.
In times where big labels, such as Marc Jacobs and Dolce & Gabbana, are absorbing back their secondary lines, Tex’s move to introduce TX ID is both bold and risky. Of course, that doesn’t necessarily mean that any secondary line is bound to fail. Still, there’s no denying that the debut collection was disappointingly underwhelming. Ultimately, Tex Saverio failed to write a new and exciting chapter in his career with TX ID.
