Sate Melawai Lifts Up the Humble Dish

by Runi Cholid
28th March 2025
Sate Melawai takes root on Melawai Street, spotlighting lamb satays that draw influences from time-honoured eateries, where recipes have been honed across generations.

It would be hard to miss the newly opened satay eatery on Melawai Street. The building sitting squarely next to Melawai Plaza makes a bold statement with its chic architecture and stylishly off-kilter roof, glowing softly with the arrival of dusk. Above the window, a simple yet confident sign introduces itself: Sate Melawai.

“We want to plant our roots. To create a legacy that could outlive us and be passed down to the next generation—something humble yet enduring like the legendary satay stalls we grow up loving,” shared one co-founder, Dhika Iqra Munggaran (who also happens to be the co-founder of RM Lokiin right next door).

Setting up shop at the forefront of one of Blok M’s busiest streets is as good a place as any to start, even if it is marred with competition. The bijou and eye-catching building designed by architectural firm LeJ Dessinees effectively doubles as advertisement, with every element tying back to the simple enjoyment of satay; from the deliberately skewed façade, mimicking the folds of takeaway satay wrapping, to the swivelling rattan window blinds that nod to the handheld fan used to stoke the flames of the grill. 

The highlight here is the lamb satay, served sizzling on a hot plate and bathed in a spice-laden broth that releases a deep, peppery aroma. It’s a classic, no-fuss recipe that Dhika and his co-founders (Suhartanto Raharjo, Andintya Maris, and Salim Madiansyah) developed by drawing inspiration from legendary satay eateries like Sate HM Haris in Bandung and Sate Mendo Wendy’s in Tegal—where time-honoured recipes have been perfected over generations.

Try the Sate Domba Lemak (lamb satay with fat) for something indulgent—drippings from the tender fat nicely complement the richness of the broth sauce, adding an extra oomph to the flavour. Or if you’re looking for something other than satay that’s even more robust and bold on the palate, the thick Gulai Domba stew with its delicate morsels of lamb is a good way to go. The mainstay, however, is Sate Sineret: made with premium cuts of lamb thighs, the soft yet chewy meat absorbs the full intensity of the sauce, making it an ideal match for warm slices of lontong (rice cake).

Though enveloped in a modern home, there’s a clear intention here not to stray too far from tradition. Beyond the classic flavours, Sate Melawai chose to employ the experienced hands of satay cooks from Garut and Cianjur, ensuring that each cut of lamb (delivered fresh daily from Bandung) is butchered and prepared in a way that truly respects the humble dish’s legacy. 

One can see from the diverse mix of diners—which span Blok M’s usual suspects of trendy youths to families with young children—that the appeal is universal, all drawn together by the simple and comforting pleasure of well-made satay.