Sometimes, you can’t help but wonder what’s in it for a brand when it sends designs lifted from popular European luxury labels down the runway and passes them off as its own. That’s the big question mark hanging over Aesthetic Pleasure’s show. Perhaps it’s a live quiz to test one’s knowledge of It bags. Is that Louis Vuitton, Alaïa, Hermès and… Loewe? The same goes for the clothes themselves. A little bit of Phoebe Philo here, a bit of The Row there, but on the whole, it was a Pinterest moodboard coming to life.
Blessed are those who were clueless enough to enjoy the show as it was. For the rest of the poker-faced guests, including members of the international press, it was time they would never get back. Putri Ghariza may not have an original proposition, but she sure had the nerve.
Sean Loh and Sheila Agatha wasted no time establishing tailoring with a subversive twist as the main driver of their collection within the first few looks. A bra top adorned with oversized orchids constructed from folded fabric petals was paired with a charcoal-grey skirt fashioned from a suit jacket, twisted into an asymmetric wrap. On a bare-chested male model, relaxed, high-waisted black trousers with diamond-patterned mesh peeking out from the waistband were paired with a black tailored jacket worn as a suspended accessory. A simple solution for the increasingly warm weather, while leaving the hands free for other important activities.
Sean and Sheila love doing the kind of clothes that balance hard-edged romance with soft femininity. Oversized strips of fabric, recalling judo belts, are twisted into abstract bows to create volume around the body. Models made another round down the runway, this time closer to the guests, allowing everyone to take in the details, particularly at the back, like the backless suit jackets split to create a coat-tail effect. Some looks were also complemented by handbags adorned with the aforementioned orchids and spider lilies, complete with trailing red cords.
The menswear looks were more gripping, carrying a tension that was less apparent in the womenswear. This was particularly evident in the play on the male silhouette, pairing tailoring with exposure and structures that disrupt the familiar proportions of a suit. The womenswear, by comparison, felt more reliant on familiar gestures of femininity. It’d be interesting to see how Sean and Sheila take this further in future shows. Overall, it was a sharp and punchy show, like a satisfying elevator pitch.
