Sashimi? Made with locally caught seafood? It’s understandable to feel surprised and even sceptical about the direction that KAI JIN is taking with its kaisen sakaba (seafood bar) in Senopati, especially with the less-than-stellar reputation of Indonesia’s oceanic produce. But that’s exactly the sort of misconception that compelled founder Sandy Budimansyah to go ahead with his daring venture.
“[When it comes to sashimi], people are quick to overlook the quality of our seafood. But the problem is not in our waters, it’s in the handling. Sometimes the fishermen don’t even use ice to store the fish,” reasoned the restaurateur, whose portfolio includes premium katsu restaurant Genbu (which shares a space with KAI JIN’s first outlet in Kelapa Gading and now in Senopati too) and Gin Gin Bakery Shop in Meruya.
It’s a fixable problem, and KAI JIN proves exactly that by working directly with local fishermen and teaching them preservation techniques such as the ikejime, a precise and humane slaughtering method that protects the fish from stress while preventing the release of chemicals that reduce shelf-life and alter the meat’s flavour. Sandy and his supplier-turned-business partner Wada Kei, who hails from Japan, then personally curate the resulting bounty, making sure that each catch is fresh enough to be processed into sashimi.
They’re not for sushi, however. Inspired by the cult-favourite eatery Tsujihan in Tokyo, KAI JIN’s main offering is the kaisendon: white rice topped with a meticulous arrangement of fresh seafood. Start with something familiar like the Maguro-Don; highlighting bluefin tuna caught from the waters between Bali and Australia, each fatty slice is indulgently rich on the palate, especially with the accompanying dollop of raw egg yolk and tuna tartare.
One can also leave the seafood selection to the chefs with the Omakase Kaisen-Don—beyond typical options such as salmon (one of the rare imported fish on the menu), there’s delight to be found in unusual offerings like the chewy and mildly sweet triple tail and the delicately tender Spanish mackerel sashimi, both sourced from Pelabuhan Ratu.
Halfway through the meal, diners can request a server to pour fish stock over the rice and relish in a completely different eating experience. Made with surplus fish head and bones to minimise waste, the soup turns the bowl into an ochazuke-like dish, comfortingly warm and gently savoury on the palate.
In sync with Senopati’s buzzing nightlife, KAI JIN’s space—where dark stone floor marries multiple shades of wood, suffused with light from the expansive wall calligraphy display—transforms into a popular haunt for after-work dinner and drinks come evening. Pre-mixed highballs from the tap (a favourite among Japanese expats) and sours with a kick are served alongside izakaya-style small bites like the Karasumi, thin slices of cured Spanish mackerel roe that surprisingly taste a lot like cheddar, and Maguro Tartar, bluefin tuna tartar topped with pop-in-your-mouth fermented black pepper.
Perhaps just as shocking as its commitment to using 95% local seafood, KAI JIN manages to offer all these without blowing a hole in your wallet, especially when compared to its contemporaries. “That’s how you get people to notice the merit of local seafood,” shares Sandy, ever enthusiastic about sharing this message. By marrying quality with accessibility, KAI JIN proves that with the right approach, local seafood can be just as exciting when explored beyond familiar flavours and cooking techniques—and it’s exciting to see where things will go from here.
