For the past three years, Junsei has pulled a crowd eager to explore Japanese cuisine beyond sushi and ramen to its home in Marylebone, Central London. Founded by Indonesian-born Aman Lakhiani and fellow chef Zach Farr, Junsei anchors itself in the humble cuisine of yakitori, zeroing in on a neck-to-tail approach that celebrates less popular parts of the chicken, a nod to Chef Aman’s experience studying at the Tsukiji branch of Tokyo Sushi Academy and working at Dos Palillos, a Michelin star Japanese restaurant in Spain.
Its name, which translates to “pure” in Japanese, clues in diners on the type of experience to be found here. Prized for its purity and exceptionally high burning temperature, skewers here are cooked over white Binchōtan charcoal or Japanese oak. This method highlights the distinct flavours and textures of various chicken parts, ensuring a tender flesh that contrasts with the charred exterior and concentrated flavours that are sealed over high heat.
Bringing over their concept to Aman’s hometown Jakarta, Junsei arrives with the same gusto. Set on the second floor of Graha Tirtadi in Senopati, the interior is kept minimal and warmly lit, and, similar to the London restaurant, focuses on the counter area where diners can get a full view of the grilling action.
With more than 20 different types of yakitori, it’s easy to stick to staples such as the Momo that comes basted in their house tare sauce (a 60-year-old sweet soy sauce made of ponzu, sake and mirin) and juicy Tsukune or meatball skewer served with an egg yolk dip. But for those willing to explore parts of the chicken they otherwise wouldn’t, the omakase includes chef’s picks of crispy yet chewy Sunagimo (gizzard), Seseri (neck) with a side of kanzuri or fermented chilli paste, caramelised Hatsumoto (aorta) to the slightly crunchy yet tender Hiza (kneecap) alongside other small plates.
While the yakitori is clearly the highlight here, the bar is not to be overlooked. In addition to classic cocktails and sake, creations like the spicy-sour Bloody Modern also inject quality Japanese ingredients through the combination of shochu, clear tomato and tabasco, served in a martini glass rimmed with homemade togarashi powder. For a little umami to match the skewers, the Smokey Harmony features a base of tequila infused with the slightly meaty Katsuobushi (bonito flakes) with berry shrub and citrus.
In a city not lacking in yakitori joints, Junsei makes a persuasive case for the humble cuisine, a reminder that there is always room for traditional, time-honoured cooking methods even in a city that’s always on the hunt for something new.
