On Tuesday evening, Sapto Djojokartiko held his Spring/Summer 2025 show at the Penthouse of one of the Sentral Senayan towers. The namesake brand previously staged their show right outside the courtyard of Plaza Senayan Mall last year. This time, it was high above ground, somehow signalling that the designer is ready to take a new direction, forward and upward.
Perhaps it was in response to his previous show—though solid, it was viewed as somewhat predictable, adhering to the familiar trope that Sapto had introduced years prior. Or it may be that the brand recognises the necessity of connecting with a younger audience to solidify its appeal. Regardless, it’s evident that the time has come for Sapto to shake the brand out of its comfort zone, demonstrate agility, and embrace change.
The most notable shift in this collection lies in its playfulness. This season, the designer lightens up and introduces more muted colours and textures. Diaphanous dresses and coats came in delicious sorbet red, seafoam and light marigold. Sapto has also moved away from his signature geometric motifs and opted for embroidery with fuzzy textures, mimicking the tactile allure of wild colourful vegetation clinging on stone walls. There is also an emphasis on movement—skirts are spliced up to create a fluid, swishing effect, while wide-legged denim pants are employed for a casual yet polished result.
Sapto has always been adaptive in a way that he has the instinct to stay ahead of the curve. Almost a decade ago, he proposed sensible footwear through platform flats and espadrilles to go with his easy, elegant dresses at a time when many local designers prefer to project an outdated vision of women in restrictive attire and high heels that they can barely move in. Then came the popularity and signature of his flowing dresses and outerwear, adorned with motifs inspired by the geometric forms of ancient Javanese temples, that were soon widely bootlegged. Sapto’s designs captured a moment when Indonesians sought to celebrate their cultural heritage through a modern, global lens.
And as the cycle continues, this collection shows Sapto is exploring a new direction. The brand remains grounded in its vision of a mobile woman who values comfort within the demands of modern life. There are various points of access in this collection, offering more ways for one to play around with the pieces like spliced skirts and mannish jackets. There is, however, a palpable sense of internal dilemma in reconciling the need to appeal to the younger audience with playful colours, shapes and textures, and addressing the preferences of more mature clientele who value elegance and wearability.
It, unfortunately, ended up looking a little lost, like a woman who is still in the midst of negotiating the youthful energy and the unnerving reality of her emerging maturity. To be sure, these dualities are not incompatible, and bridging those complexities is clearly possible. It’ll be intriguing to see what Sapto will come up with in the coming seasons.
