Boston in the early ’90s didn’t offer much—or anything at all—in the way of Indonesian food for the homesick Udina Shirley, who was then completing her undergrad at Boston University. So she looked elsewhere for comfort, finding familiar bold flavours at a modest Thai eatery then known as Thai House (now Brown Sugar Cafe) on Commonwealth Avenue. She didn’t realise it at the time, but those lunches from three decades ago quietly set the course for Saap Thai, her own casual Thai restaurant at ASHTA District 8 that specialises in boat noodles.
“I visited Thai House so often that I became friends with the Thai server and cooks, and it was there that I was exposed to their culture and style of cooking,” shared the self-described social butterfly, fondly known to many as Ci Udin. Then, a little over ten years ago, “I started making boat noodles for friends, but it wasn’t until the pandemic that I started selling them online. It wasn’t regular, but they sell out each time.”
Words spread, and by 2023, Udina had begun selling a steady 1,000 bowls each month as her boat noodles gathered a near cult-like following—friends who became regulars, and regulars who turned into friends. Even now, as her restaurant welcomes a steady stream of families to office lunch crowds, these early supporters remain loyal. On top of making regular visits, their presence is marked by thoughtful gifts for Udina, scattered across the restaurant’s space: a photograph by Vicky Tanzil capturing her friends—from a film producer to her 80-year-old neighbour—hangs in the glowing red booth up front; while the staff aprons were specially designed by long-time friend and fashion designer Sapto Djojokartiko.
As if echoing its community spirit, Saap Thai’s signature Boat Noodle leans into comfort. Rich and umami, the bowl is lifted by fresh cilantro and topped with your choice of chicken, sirloin or premium wagyu. Unlike the version popularised by the Thong Smith restaurant in Bangkok, the recipe Udina has refined over the years (with some help from her online friend, chef Andy Rickers of the influential Pok Pok Brooklyn) goes halal and skips the cow blood, resulting in a lighter, almost pho-like broth. There’s also the savoury Dry Noodle, which is best paired with pickled chillies. And of course, the meal won’t be complete without Thai Iced Tea; fragrant and subtly sweet, the drink comes in both the classic and matcha variations.
At a time when eateries across the city are beginning to tap into Thai cuisine, Saap Thai arrived with fitting timing. But it’s clear the restaurant is here for more than just the trend. There’s an old-school charm to it, the kind that’s still rooted in its community—even the decision to serve halal food was made out of consideration for Udina’s Muslim friends. And perhaps, with time, Saap Thai will go on to inspire others—just as Thai House once did for Udina.