Tucked along Jalan Lauser, beside the long-standing Pasar Mayestik and the newer Taman Bendera Pusaka, RM Pak Tardja has long been a familiar lunch spot for those seeking a comforting bowl of beef soup.
First established in 1970 by Pak Tardja as a modest roadside stall selling satay, the rumah makan only began serving its now-signature soups in the 1980s. No-fuss and generously portioned, these dishes would eventually become what drew generations of diners to the spot and kept them coming back over the years. More than five decades later, RM Pak Tardja remains a family-run business, now carried on by Pak Tardja’s daughter, Nurdjanah, as its second generation and his granddaughter, Dede Septiani, as the third.
There’s one type of beef soup that easily stands out on a first visit: the Sop Sum Sum Sapi. The bone marrow is boiled for just five to seven minutes, a precise timing that gives the beef inside the bones its soft, sponge-like texture without letting it liquefy. Keeping the meat inside the bone as it is boiled lends to the experience, resulting in a marrow that has a fresh, clean taste without feeling too raw. Add a spoonful of the broth into the bone for an extra hit of flavour, then sip it through a straw.
For something a little more hearty, the Sop Iga makes a fitting pairing with the Sum Sum soups. RM Pak Tardja also gives diners the option to combine the two on one plate. But even on its own, the Sop Iga stands out. Its appeal lies largely in its simplicity and generous portion, with the savoury flavours of the beef and broth left relatively undisturbed by other components. The only addition is a side of emping, whose slight bitterness gives a nice contrast to the richness of the beef and broth.
The soups may have become the restaurant’s signature, but the recipes at RM Pak Tardja have largely stayed the same since the days of Pak Tardja himself. That includes the satay dishes that started it all, which are still served today with the familiar flavours that have kept them around for decades.
The place comes alive most during lunchtime. On weekdays, office workers still in their uniforms arrive with colleagues for a filling meal, while weekends bring more families, perhaps stopping by after time with the kids at the nearby park or a shopping trip to Pasar Mayestik. It’s a scene that has likely remained familiar to RM Pak Tardja for decades, where different generations of diners come together for a straightforward, filling lunch.