Featuring thick cuts of beef shank in a clear broth, the Betawi-style sop daging (beef soup) at RM Berkah in Jeruk Purut is as simple as it gets. Yet it is this very same dish that has put the neighbourhood eatery on the map for culinary hunters in the city, fueling the establishment’s allure since its founding in 1982.
Now managed by the third generation, the eatery bears a similar anachronistic charm to a grandmother’s house. Windows, ceiling fans and archways appear as if they have remained unchanged over the decades—a sentiment also reflected in the eatery’s concise selection of Betawi delights.
Longtime regulars readily attest that the signature beef soup dish has maintained its original appeal, remaining the way it has always been in their memories; the beef cuts (each one boiled for at least three hours) are tender with just the right amount of chewiness, while the broth, garnished with spring onions and fried shallots, is delightfully savoury without overpowering everything else.
Alongside the soup, it’s always a good idea to order side dishes such as the ayam goreng telur—a piece of chicken thigh or breast fried with beaten egg, yielding a succulent interior and a crispy exterior (pro tip from the staff: drizzle it with the soup broth to add an extra layer of flavour). There’s also perkedel (potato fritters), which makes a flavoursome carb alternative if you want to skip the rice.
At RM Berkah, there’s a comforting rhythm to the way the patrons settle in, with just the right level of familiarity and ease that suggests they’ve been coming here for years. From office workers to families living in the neighbourhood, they return knowing precisely what to expect when they walk through the door: simple, consistent dishes that satisfy their cravings with each repeat visit.