For centuries, Indian cooking has relied on a simple yet transformative vessel: the handi. The wide-mouthed clay pot, a staple of Indian kitchens for generations, is favoured for slow-cooking, coaxing deep flavours from the simplest ingredients.
Helmed by Kolkata-born Head Chef Alok Mondal, Handi at Le Meridien taps into this age-old technique to create dishes that remain faithful to traditions while also offering something new and modern. “When you think of your grandparent’s cooking, you think of the handi pot. So it’s very familiar and comforting; it makes you think of home-cooked dishes,” shared the chef.
Reflecting this sense of warmth, the menu offers a mix of familiar mainstays to lesser-known regional specialties from North and South India. For starters, the crispy Papadum flatbread arrives alongside house-made sauces from pickled mango to mint chutney—each spoonful a sharp contrast of sweet, sour and heat. Meanwhile, the Panipuri, bite-sized shells filled with spiced potatoes and tangy tamarind water, presents a burst of flavour that primes one’s palate for the rich meal ahead.
The Chicken Biryani arrives in a sealed pastry pot, locking in the fragrant aromatics until the moment it’s sliced open, releasing a perfume of saffron, cinnamon and clove. There’s also the staple dish of Butter Chicken and the Venchina Mamsam, a South Indian lamb dish marinated in yoghurt overnight and slow-cooked with a blend of spices until meltingly tender. Grab a freshly baked naan, with its crisp edges and warm pillowy centres, to scoop and soak up the sauces.
To balance the bold spices, the Jaljeera—a chilled, cumin-laced refresher cuts through the layers of heat and depth. Come dessert, the Narangi Kulfi presents a frozen confection of thickened milk encased in an orange shell, its creamy sweetness offset by a scattering of toasted nuts.
Within its interior of warm terracotta walls and painted murals featuring stone and brass accents, Handi sees a loyal stream of regulars—most of them Indian expatriates on the hunt for the comforting flavours of home. But for those less familiar with the cuisine, the staff is quick to assist and ease diners into the restaurant’s varied offerings.
As the meal winds down, guests are offered a spoonful of saunf—fennel seeds slightly coated with sugar—a traditional palate cleanser that lingers with a slightly minty sweetness. It’s a simple gesture, yet a meaningful one that serves as a reminder of Handi’s roots—where the simplest of spices are given their due, and where the humble claypot remains a timeless vessel for Indian flavours.