A little more than two years since the opening of Crio in Menteng, it’s clear that chef-founder Richie Pratadaja has comfortably (and justifiably) established his reputation as a master chocolatier in Jakarta’s dining scene. To the delight of his loyal patrons, the recent opening of his second restaurant Criollo in Plaza Indonesia signals the next chapter for the chef, where he further explores the implementation of chocolate in his savoury dishes.
“We wanted our menu to be comforting. And from Crio, we’ve learned that people really like dishes with a chocolate component, like the cauliflower salad with chocolate dressing,” shared Chef Richie. “Chocolate is like coffee, different origins will reveal different taste notes, from bitter to floral. So it’s all about finding the right type of chocolate to use—dark, white or milk—and the right cacao concentration to match with the savoury dish.”
Acting as an extension to Crio, the restaurant’s heightened focus on chocolate is subtly reflected in its design, inspired by the fruit of the rare cacao plant that lends the space its name. Red textured walls emulate the shell of the cacao pod, while the semi-circle booths—stretching back towards the kitchen pass, where chef de cuisine William Cecario artfully adds the finishing touches to each dish—mirror the overlapping rows of seeds nestled inside the fruit.
New highlights on the menu include the 48-hour Slow Cooked Chuck Shortribs, for which a generous bath of chocolate and vanilla gravy adds a layer of warmth and subtly sweet profile to complement the tender cut, served alongside mushroom ragout and potato pave that balance the richness of the dish. There’s also Fish & Vanilla: fish of the day paired with a bed of vanilla potato purée, king oyster mushroom, asparagus and a truffle vanilla sour sauce that introduces additional complexity with its umami and sweet notes.
While it may not be obvious from the first impression, beyond chocolate dressings, Criollo is also leaning more heavily towards Indonesian influences in its dishes. Nasi Bebek Criollo is a great option, offering a simple and familiar yet well-executed combination of crispy peking duck and nasi tutug oncom (rice with bites of fermented soy cake) with a spicy kick from the sambal bawang (shallots and chilli relish) and the zesty sambal mangga (spicy mango relish).
Just like with Crio, concluding the meal with a visit to the bonbon display feels compulsory at this point. Here, classic selections from the sister restaurant are joined by new creations like the Fruit Pie Bar: a bar of five chocolate domes, each filled with different fruit—bergamot, strawberry lime, blackcurrant, calamansi, and passion fruit—resting on a layer of speculoos cookies. Another recent addition is the Criollo-exclusive gelato selection; for this, Chef Richie recommends a pairing of rum raisin and mint chocolate for a nice contrast.
But if it’s a buzz you’re after, Criollo will soon unveil its bar, White Dog, tucked discreetly behind the dessert display. Here, head mixologist Angling Darma crafts cocktails that draw on childhood memories and Indonesian flavours, using fresh, locally sourced ingredients. A standout is To Create Not To Copy by WG (inspired by the Sugar Refinery treat at Room4Dessert in Bali, where Angling previously worked), which features a clarified mix of mangosteen, soursop, neera and palm sugar with a rum and vermouth base, garnished with soursop sorbet and emping (melinjo crackers) coated in Toblerone chocolate.
While the idea of chocolate-dipped savoury dishes might invite some scepticism, the warm reception at Criollo should suggest they’re well worth exploring. If anything, it goes to show the city’s welcoming nature to new culinary interpretations, and that—when executed properly—there’s comfort to be found even in dishes that may seem uncanny.