Growing up in La Rochelle, a coastal city on the west coast of France, chef-owner Sacha Lefebvre learned early on that the best memories are often made around the dining table. Being so close to the ocean also meant constant access to seafood, where mealtime rituals revolve around dishes such as moules, or mussels, which locals can eat practically every day.
It’s no surprise, then, to find such influences in the lineup of hearty, classic French fare at Paris Bistro, Chef Sacha’s latest venture with business partner Jonas Bourhis, located at Jakarta Mori Tower. The duo, who delighted the city’s palate with dessert bar Paris Sorbet in 2019, sets out to further spotlight French culinary culture through their proper take on the bistro—another beloved French institution.
While the concept of bistro differs all the time in execution, as Chef Sacha also admitted, its foundational understanding is fixed around serving classic, flavourful home-style dishes in a convivial atmosphere. Its setting on the 13th floor—semi-intimate with a mix of warm wood walls, marble-topped furnishings equipped with vintage utensils, a dedicated bar, and a few of vintage French posters (including an illustration of the duo’s hometown)—is graced with a wonderful skyline of Sudirman, set with a terrace where diners can enjoy quality time alfresco.
When it comes to the menu, Chef Sacha takes pride in developing everything from scratch. His take on classic French cuisine stays faithful to tradition, but years of running a restaurant in Jakarta also meant understanding the importance of adjusting to the local palate. “But it’s not fusion!” said Chef Sacha with a smile.
Starting from the entree, Camembert au Four is a simple whip of French comfort food, bringing together melted cheese served with honey and fresh herbs, alongside slices of sourdough bread to be enjoyed as a pair. A little on the umami side, the Chef’s Recommendation Pappardelle Crevette finds flat-ribbon pasta tossed in shrimp bisque sauce, enhanced with cognac and a spread of salmon roe. The La Rochelle’s influence comes through in Moules Sauce Poulette, a plate of black mussels cooked in creamy sauce, with onion, white wine and parsley.
Then, there’s the rightful mention of the French classic Bœuf Bourguignon: beef cheek slow-braised in red wine reduction until meltingly tender, resulting in a deep, savoury stew with a hint of sweetness—a familiar flavour of beef stew that Indonesians can appreciate. And for those familiar with Paris Sorbet, there’s a sweet addition of their signature French Toast, made with soft, perfectly toasted brioche, topped with ice cream of choice from Paris Sorbet and finished with caramel sauce.
With its strategic location, Paris Bistro naturally draws a crowd of corporate professionals winding down over dinner after work, or couples on the weekend indulging in the so-called romanticism of French dining. But true to the idea of a bistro, it’s a place where meals are best savoured in the company of others. Conviviality, after all, lies in the little things—a melting cheese, a slow-cooked stew, a nostalgic dessert. And at Paris Bistro, those simple joys are served generously.
