As with the various properties of Aman resorts that are carefully scattered in the most secluded folds of the world, a marked portion of the inimitable Aman experience lies in the journey of getting to the retreat. Take Amanemu in the verdant hills of Ise-Shima National Park, for example, where guests have the option to hop on a train or a private helicopter ride. While over at Amangiri within the vast Colorado Plateau, guests embark on hours of scenic ride to the property from the airport, with the option of making a pit stop at Grand Canyon National Park along the way. Similarly, for guests of Amanjiwo, the journey to the luxury resort becomes an experience in itself, setting the tone for what lies ahead.
Opened in 1997, Amanjiwo’s unique location in the mystical landscapes of Central Java and overlooking the ancient Borobudur temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, has imbued the secluded retreat with an air of timeless elegance and cultural reverence. It’s no surprise that visiting Amanjiwo has become something of a pilgrimage, especially for the Amanjunkies. While hopping on a direct flight to Yogyakarta International Airport is the most convenient route, those who are afforded the luxury of time should consider the seven-hour train ride across the island of Java from Jakarta to Amanjiwo.
The scenic journey in the private carriage of KAI Wisata is neither an act of nostalgia for the old world nor a novelty attempt at loading the experience with social media-worthy moments. It is a prelude to the Amanjiwo stay that is put together with a specific intention in mind. During the train ride, resident anthropologist Patrick Vanhoebrouck guides guests into the introduction of the rich Javanese culture—the influence of Buddhism on the island before the rise of Islam and the significance of Borobudur—laying the foundation for connecting Amanjiwo’s spiritual and cultural heartbeat. Think of the passage as a thoughtful transition, inviting guests to prepare their minds for the stay ahead.
Once arrived, Amanjiwo’s architecture commands attention immediately with its majestic circular design, an homage to the iconic Borobudur. Designed by Ed Tuttle, the resort mirrors the ancient temple’s concentric layers and serene symmetry. Guests are greeted with a collonaded entrance leading to an open rotunda crowned with a domed roof; this elegant centrepiece sets the tone for the rest of the resort, marrying minimalist modernity with traditional Javanese aesthetics. Limestone walls, volcanic stone accents, and graceful arches echo the textures and spirit of the region, creating a space that feels both monumental and intimately grounded.
Amanjiwo’s close proximity to Borobudur not only influences the architecture but also imbues the resort with spiritual energy. This energy elevates the suites at Amanjiwo into sanctuaries of their own. Each suite features a thatched roof, high ceilings, and terrazzo floors, complemented by elegant furnishings crafted from teakwood. Spacious terraces with daybeds and private plunge pools invite moments of quiet reflection. The monastic aura is also amplified by the presence of the staff who donned traditional Javanese-inspired uniforms in neutral tones and batik sarongs; their presence, moving gracefully along the resort’s curvature, feels almost ritualistic, as if they, too, are part of the serene choreography of Amanjiwo.
Connection to the cultural essence of Central Java manifests in myriad ways at Amanjiwo. A guided tour of the Borobudur temple is a must, with early mornings offering the most rewarding experience before the midday heat arrives. One can also further geek out on the narrative reliefs of the temple through lectures by Vanhoebrouck, serving as a delightful conversation starter over dinner.
Other activities such as Tolak Balak and Jemparingan further highlight Amanjiwo’s dedication to integrating cultural and spiritual practices into the guest experience. The former is a spiritual ceremony rooted in Javanese tradition that is performed to cleanse negative energies and invite blessings. The latter, a form of archery originating from Keraton Yogyakarta, is less about competition but a profound exercise of control and character development for the practitioner.
Of course, one is always encouraged to take it easy at Amanjiwo. While away the rest of the day over at the resort’s iconic main pool that is framed by two Bodhi tree topiaries. The latter is inspired by the sacred bodhi tree under which Siddhartha Gautama attained enlightenment, embodying the spiritual essence of Amanjiwo.
Alternatively, take in the panoramic sunset at Menoreh Hills and enjoy the view of Amanjiwo and Borobudur from above like a constellation dominated by its two brightest stars. It’s hard not to imagine how the ancient inhabitants and travellers once stood at the exact same spot and marvelled at the vast plain that is anchored by the biggest temple, unchanged through the rise and fall of kingdoms.
From the seven-hour train ride journey, the first glimpse of Borobudur, and spiritual activities to the final farewell, Amanjiwo redefines luxury as more than just material indulgence. Here, luxury is presented as the rare opportunity to slow down and anchor oneself fully in the present. Time becomes an elusive luxury and the most profound treasure of all.