It has become something of a ritual for Sapto Djojokartiko to present his annual runway at the penthouse of Sentral Senayan II. After last year’s collection, which leaned heavily into a youthful update that felt almost weighed down by its own ambition, Sapto returns this season with a clearer sense of direction. The Spring/Summer 2026 collection refines his language of craft and tradition into something lighter— both in attitude and execution.
The clothes reveal that shift in perspective. Where past collections seemed intent on showcasing technique, this one uses it to move the conversation forward around tradition. In one look, a plaid motif appears as hand embroidery mimicking woven texture on a gossamer coat, worn over a simple polo shirt and a bright yellow skirt in a batik kawung motif.
Layers of chiffon, organza, and lace are assembled with the precision of armour, yet they move with ease, reflecting how strength and softness coexist in the same breath. Sapto revisits familiar house codes—embroidery, transparency, and traditional motifs—but pares them down, introducing clarity where there was once ornamentation. The result feels more personal, less performative, as though the designer has learned to speak without raising his voice.
Rather than chasing youth as an aesthetic, Sapto expands his world to include women of different ages, rhythms, and realities. What makes the collection compelling is how instinctively he seems to understand how women move through their days, and what they need from the clothes that accompany them. Instead of anchoring his vision to a single archetype, he presents a spectrum of possibilities.
An airy coat thrown over a Yves Klein blue polo and tailored trousers telegraphs grace and practicality rendered in motion. Big, fluffy handbags resemble emotional support pets—endearing yet functional companions through the social anxieties of modern life. Dresses in cutwork embroidery take on the feel of protective armour, yet also read as invitations to vulnerability. Even the more layered looks are pared down with the simplicity of thong heels, grounding the fantasy in reality.
According to the show notes, the collection was conceived as a reflection on global turmoil, economic uncertainty, and the unending noise of the present moment. Sapto not only proposes clothes that mirror their time, but also offers a way to move forward. Like the closing look, where model Reti Ragil strode out in a sober oversized blazer with a nod to 1940s shoulders and embroidered white trousers, her hair loosely tied back—as if ready for whatever comes next. Come what may.
