In 1993, the late Princess Diana arrived on a remote island in West Nusa Tenggara province. A place so remote it escapes even most Indonesians’ consciousness. It is on Moyo Island, and under the care of Amanwana, that Princess Diana avoided the spotlight of her separation from Prince Charles. Her stay at Amanwana has since become a defining moment in the resort’s lore.
Today, the island still holds that rare quiet—a sanctuary of wilderness where Amanwana sits, the resort’s only tented retreat in Indonesia. Unlike some of Aman’s more publicised properties in places like Tokyo, Venice, or New York, Amanwana’s remote location on Moyo Island—accessible only by seaplane or boat—means it doesn’t get the same casual attention. Yet it is revered by Aman loyalists as the place to disappear into nature without losing Aman’s signature refinement.
Moyo Island, located in the Flores Sea off the north coast of Sumbawa, is a nature reserve within the Lesser Sunda Islands. On this island that resembles the head of an avian, fewer than 5000 inhabitants go about their daily lives, mainly as farmers and fishermen across its villages. There are no cars, no crowds—only the soft crunch of sand and horizon that seamlessly affixes the sky and the sea into hypnotic shades of blue.
The resort itself is a study in restraint, much like the island. Twenty luxe safari-style tents line the shoreline. Inside, polished hardwood floors and understated furnishings nod to Aman’s philosophy: luxury measured not in excess, but in space and rumination. While it’s tempting to relish in the embrace of the room right away, the best part of Amanwana awaits outside.
Outside the tented suite, the surroundings beckon with a living presence—birdsong doubles as nature’s alarm in the early mornings, the gentle slosh of waves, wild macaques romping playfully in the trees as if reminding one to get up and enjoy an activity. There’s a clear distinction that at Amanwana, nature is not a backdrop to one’s holiday but the host itself.
Swimming in the clear water by the shoreline is undoubtedly one of the best things one could do on a daily basis in Amanwana. Leap off the pier into the vivid coral gardens and darting fishes in intense saturated colours. Repeat the routine daily like a supplement prescribed by nature, and entering the sea begins to feel like being a part of the island’s living canvas.
Another vision of paradise can also be found hidden within the island. Inland, tucked within the island’s rainforest, Mata Jitu waterfall (“precisely falling spring” in the local dialect) lies in wait with its tiered waterfall cascading over limestone pools, terraced like natural baths and shaded by towering jungle trees. Locals refer to it as “Diana Waterfall,” a nod to Princess Diana’s discreet visit in the 1990s. Above the main waterfall lies a quieter plunge commonly called “Barry’s Falls,” named after the resort’s late resident anthropologist, Barry Lees, who helped uncover the island’s hidden treasure.
To have nature as a host also means to submit to its pattern of unpredictability. Over at the resort, the sea may rest still as a mirror, or stir under a sudden wind. The sunset may blaze gold across the horizon, or dissolve into soft greys behind a curtain of cloud. Each moment is shaped by chance, reconfiguring guests into attuning themselves to the island’s shifting moods. Further offshore by the Saleh Bay, the whale shark expedition underscored the reality. Hours may pass without sight of the gentle giant; an unspoken gamble one takes on when dealing with nature.
Decades since Princess Diana’s visit, little has changed on Moyo. The island remains quiet, the tents still face the sea, the waterfall still spills over tiers of pale limestone. At Amanwana, nature does not bend itself for convenience. The sea decides what you will see, and the weather dictates the rhythm of your days. And the more one yields to her pace, the more rewarding the days become.
It is in this surrender to unpredictability and wilderness in its raw state that luxury takes on a different meaning. Amanwana offers this rare take of luxury: one that asks for presence, humility, and an unguarded heart.
