Even after more than three decades of existence, one would be hard-pressed to name a resort group that does luxury retreats like Aman Resorts. Renowned for its constellation of havens scattered across some of the world’s most far-flung and enchanting locales, Aman continues to navigate beneath the radar. This discretion, however, is a testament to the group’s vision of luxury—so exquisitely singular and inimitable that it is embraced and fully appreciated by a select few connoisseurs. In Bali alone, Amandari and Amankila stand as twin jewels in Aman’s crown, their presence intertwined with the allure of the Island of the Gods.
Perched on the precipice of the verdant Ayung River Gorge in Ubud, Amandari is a sanctum that upholds the rich Balinese culture as its very essence. Designed by the late architect Peter Muller and launched in the year 1989, Amandari’s architecture pays reverent homage to the traditional Balinese village. Stone pathways winding towards thatched-roof suites, and, within them, teak and coconut wood furnishings and hand-carved artefacts subtly adorned the interior.
Amandari’s adulation for the Balinese village goes beyond aesthetics. Right from the resort’s lobby, a replica of the tiger statue—guardian of the 7th-century Hindu shrine 129 steps below— serves as an initiatory statement to Amandari’s reverence for its sacred surroundings.
Exemplifying the soul of a village, Amandari weaves its rhythm closely to the nearby Kedewatan village and enjoys bringing its guests together. Every afternoon, the children from the village congregate by the lotus pond and practise Balinese dance under the guidance of Ibu Agung, culminating in a weekly performance by the lobby, a celebration of culture and community. Afternoon tea time is enlivened by local women of the village who serve up traditional kue by the bar, under the glow of the late afternoon sun.
When the lively village-style gatherings get overstimulating, guests can clear their minds by dipping in the infinity pool overlooking the valley. Alternatively, a private spiritual session with the revered Balinese healer Pak Made Lunas from the village of Kemenuh offers up another way of connecting to the island’s spiritual heritage. In the duplex suite, the upper floor invites contemplation, be it gazing at the intricate Kamasan tapestry that adorned the canopy bed or catching a glimpse of resort staff below as they carry freshly laundered sheets through the stone pathway, further lulling guests deeper into the unhurried village atmosphere.
In stark contrast to the jungle retreat of Amandari, Amankila plants itself discreetly over the rugged cliffs of East Bali, overlooking the Lombok Strait. Upon arrival, guests are greeted by the infinity pool that resembles a three-tiered azure cake, each level offering unobstructed views of the shimmering waters beyond.
Still, it is the unique architecture of Amankila that will no doubt leave an impression on first-time visitors. Opened in 1992, the resort draws inspiration from the Ujung Water Palace, built by the last king of Karangasem I Gusti Bagus Jelantik in 1909 as a place of relaxation for the royal family.
The suites on Amankila, perched high on the hillside, resemble luxurious tree houses with their elevated positions. Here, the suites themselves offer a retreat within a retreat. The outdoor living area offers a picturesque setting for lounging under the tropical sun. When the heat gets too intense, guests can opt to head within their suite and indulge in a bath. Come late afternoon, the resort’s private beach club awaits at the foot of the cliff, offering an alternative escape whether it’s lounging by the pool or strolling along the quiet beach as if the entire coastline has been reserved just for you.
Those with a penchant for cultural or adventure pursuits will find their needs easily taken care of by the resort. From visiting the aforementioned historic Ujung Water Palace, a Balinese blessing conducted by Amankila’s local priest, to snorkelling along the coast, these activities remain rooted in unveiling a slice of Balinese life, drawing guests into the cultural and spiritual essence of Bali.
The turn down session at Amankila is also another experience unto itself. Similar to Amandari, every night, guests will return to their suite to find thoughtful souvenirs that not only highlight the craftsmanship of local artisans, but also offer insights into Balinese culture and history. Case in point, a Chinese coin keychain (or ‘pis bolong’ in Balinese) points to the Chinese presence in Bali since the 7th century. According to legends, after the union of Balinese king Sri Maharaja Aji Jayapangus and Chinese princess Kang Cing Wie in 12 AD, the princess requested that Chinese coins be included in all Balinese rituals, symbolising a poignant reminder of the blend of cultures.
Since the launch of Aman more than three decades ago, the resort group has been firm in driving home the philosophy of discreet luxury. The latter is ever more relevant in this day and age, when the word ‘luxury’ is equated with excess and feels like a throwaway word to justify exorbitant prices. A stay at both Amandari and Amankila reveals that the most profound luxuries in life are often the simplest, and also the hardest to achieve in our daily lives.
From their design to the careful integration with local culture and nature, Aman’s approach resonates with a select group of travellers who seek more than just a vacation; they seek to reconnect themselves and the world around them. For those who understand and appreciate this subtle yet profound form of luxury, a stay at Amandari or Amankila is not just a retreat but a revelation.
