Warung Bali Pak Gede, founded by Michael Lukiman Hakim and Hartanto Yaputra, carries the success of its first restaurant in Haji Nawi to a second branch in Lebak Bulus—adding new recipes alongside their signature nasi campur that propelled the humble eatery to a wider audience when it comes to comforting, no-frills Balinese food in South Jakarta. The new venue expands, not only in the size of the dining area, but also its food offerings, where traditional Balinese options are joined by popular Javanese dishes that are commonly found in Bali.
Rather than attempting a one-to-one imitation, Michael—who comes from a Palembang family, but was born and raised in Bali—chooses to develop his own style. “Our base genep (a signature spice seasoning in Bali) is my own version; more toned-down and balanced,” said Michael. “Everything in here resembles the island’s cuisine, but we do it our own way.”
That approach also comes through clearly in the dish that first put Pak Gede on the map back in Haji Nawi branch. The signature Nasi Campur Spesial Ayam dan Sapi remains a favourite among loyal diners, thanks to its generous portions and assorted sides and condiments. Going beyond typical Balinese nasi campur, this crowd-pleaser comes packed with ample protein—shredded chicken, a piece of fried chicken, sliced beef, sate lilit, and a large chicken satay—a nod to Pak Gede’s early beginnings as a satay stall in Panglima Polim. Meanwhile, the new Sop Daging Ikan Goreng (fried fish and soup) is inspired by the ones commonly found in Sanur. The fish is fried into a firm crust while retaining a soft interior, pairing well with the soup’s savoury broth, with boiled fish and cucumbers served within.
As part of the new menu, Pak Gede also serves popular Javanese fare that has found its way into Bali’s food scene, such as Nasi Tempong, a dish that originated in Banyuwangi. Here, generous servings of fried prawns sit beside steamed rice topped with crispy anchovies, fresh vegetables, and the essential sambal. Elsewhere, the eatery’s adaptation of Balinese flavours to Jakarta’s palate goes beyond the usual ‘no pork, no lard’ rule. It also offers well-loved beef offal dishes—cow lungs and tongue—prepared in true Balinese style.
To end the meal, co-founder Hartanto’s rendition of Kelapa Ice Cream comes recommended. Served in a natural coconut shell, as it is in Bali, the treat gets an added twist from a crunchy semprong wijen wafer that contrasts beautifully with the sweet, creamy coconut ice cream.
Alongside the expanded menu, the Lebak Bulus branch also introduces a new dining experience that sets it apart from its predecessor. One quick glance into the restaurant reveals a clear departure from the grab-and-go nature of its Haji Nawi branch. From the spacious dining area and wooden tables to the outdoor pavilion that blends seamlessly with the surrounding turf, every element reflects a more leisurely dine-in setting that complements the expanded menu. “Aside from providing a bigger space, we also offer more family-friendly dishes here in Lebak Bulus, so parents can bring their children and dine together,” said Michael.
