RM Budi Jaya’s longevity speaks for itself. Thirty-two years since its founding, the humble streetside eatery continues to hold its ground in Lebak Bulus, its red-and-blue Padang house logo long synonymous with lunch for commuters and neighbouring residents who pass through the area each day. To its loyal following, it never ceases to be a sight for sore eyes, largely thanks to the nuanced serving of classic delicacies with slightly tweaked spices and seasonings that reflect founder Budiono’s preference for a more Javanese palate.
Every seasoning and spice is made from scratch, resulting in distinct flavours that pack a subtle sweetness—a nod to Budiono’s Javanese roots as a city transplant from Kebumen. The 65-year-old picked up what he knows about the Padang cuisine by watching the cooks at work at the renowned Simpang Raya in Senen, where he worked throughout the ‘80s.
Over time, that experience, coupled with close observations of his former mentors, gradually evolved into the style of Padang fare that diners indulge in at RM Budi Jaya. It’s reflected in best-sellers like the well-seasoned, tender Ayam Bakar and the Rendang, which departs from the usual dry style and comes coated in a richly spiced, mildly sweet brown curry. Another popular choice is the Gulai Tunjang; its curry is so thick that it’s almost creamy, pairing well with the chewy beef tendons.
Yet despite the deviation from the traditional formula, the eatery’s interpretation of the classics is exactly what cements it as the Padang eatery to return to. While RM Budi Jaya has never claimed to be the most ‘authentic’, there’s no doubting the draw of its Padang staples. The family-run eatery’s loyal following spans from nearby office workers and neighbourhood residents to famous names like the late comedian Warkop Sardono or Dono.
That loyalty has, at times, travelled far beyond the Lebak Bulus neighbourhood. “Some of our regulars would even buy in bulk to take our dishes abroad,” shared Sarmiati, or Mia (60), Budiono’s younger sister, who helped him build the eatery from the ground up. “They’ve brought them to places like Singapore, Germany, and the Netherlands.”