Towards the last weeks of October, the weather has been thrown off-kilter, swinging moodily from clear, sunny skies one moment to uncharacteristically heavy downpours the next—like a bad prank, the kind that derails one’s plans for the rest of the day. That’s just the reality of living in a world affected by climate change.
It’s a timely reminder, then, that Sejauh Mata Memandang presented a collection spotlighting what we stand to lose amid the ongoing destruction brought about by climate change, and exacerbated by human action (and inaction). This season, Chitra Subyakto and her co-creative director, Felix Tjahyadi, turned their attention to the world of the sea.
New motifs, inspired by Indonesia’s rich biodiversity of marine fauna, appeared across the looks. Schools of manta rays, whale sharks, sea turtles, and sunfish were applied across shirts, wrap skirts, scarves, and bra tops, as if tracing an invisible underwater current. And just as the bombardment of sea-animal motifs began to feel too earnest and overly on the nose, Chitra and Felix stripped all colour and pattern away, sending out the final five looks in stark white—a metaphor for coral bleaching and the collapse of marine habitats.
Environmental message aside, both Chitra and Felix struck a balance by offering a range of casual daywear—perfect for social gatherings and tropical holidays—alongside evening-oriented looks, as seen in the “white” section of the show, suited for more formal occasions.
Still, it was the bags and accessories that undoubtedly stole the show. In particular, the knitted bags in the shape of manta rays, conch shells, and chambered nautiluses are wonderfully whimsical pieces that delight and complete an outfit in equal measure. They’ll no doubt appear in the arms of celebrities and influencers very soon.
Later that evening, the Fashion Force Award show spotlighted a handful of local brands to watch. This year’s roster offered an intriguing survey of local fashion. Gone are the days when designers and fashion entrepreneurs had to stick to a conventional path—following the established fashion calendar and catering to a loyal high-end clientele—to be taken seriously. The internet and social media have fragmented and upended how people understand and consume fashion. In short, there is no longer a single, established path.
Among the highlights was White Noise FM, recipient of the evening’s Ready-to-Wear Award. Founded by Dekza Arlingga in 2020, the label built its reputation on the humble white T-shirt—often sold out despite its higher price point—and also introduced its own signature carpenter pants, with distinct contrast panelling and lush topstitching, elongating the legs and grounding the silhouette. Their heavyweight cotton shirts, cropped to sit just below the waist, reflect Dekza’s business acumen—not only identifying a gap in the market for quality basics but also recognising the broader shift in how younger generations dress today.
It’s the kind of silhouette that emphasises a strong upper-body outline paired with a looser fit from the waist down—a proportion that can be traced to popular anime character Toji Fushiguro of Jujutsu Kaisen, whose outfit of a form-fitting top and relaxed pants captures a balance of strength and ease that has since entered mainstream style.
On the runway, the capsule collection of six looks zeroed in on what makes White Noise FM work: ready-to-wear pieces with streetwear sensibility designed for urban living. Faux suede and utilitarian detailing nodded to the workwear uniforms of heavy industry, grounding the collection with a tactile sense of function.
The win should serve as a sensible wake-up call to local designers who churn out collections disconnected from what their clientele actually want to wear—constantly moving from one concept to the next as if testing new dishes on a restaurant menu. More often than not, the fashion labels that endure begin with something simple: clothes that truly matter to the people who wear them.
