The late Anthony Bourdain once described Thai food as “like discovering a colour I never knew existed before. A whole new crayon box full of colours.”
Similarly, this sense of discovery and curiosity also drives Chef Yohans Gozal in building YOUNG, his modern Thai grill restaurant in Dharmawangsa. After a series of trips to Thailand, where he ventured beyond Bangkok to uncover the diversity of regional dishes, Chef Yohans realised there was far more to Thai food than what most diners in the city are used to—the pad thais, the pandan chickens (so don’t expect them on the menu).
With YOUNG, a word play on yang, which means grill in Thai, he sets out to explore the richness and depth of Thai cuisine through lesser-known, equally unique dishes, each given a thoughtful interpretation. That same energy carries into the restaurant itself, from preserving the blueprint of an old, charming house and transforming it into a warm, sunlit dining space, to working around a seasonal menu that changes every four months to keep things fresh and surprising.
In the newly launched third volume, Chef Yohans spotlights Khao Yum, a vibrant rice salad from southern Thailand that boasts a playful medley of textures. Served with crispy shrimp, roasted coconut, and a mix of raw herbs known as “jungle herbs,” the dish is tied together with a pungent nam budu fish sauce. Another highlight is the Thai Fried Egg—a humble street food classic—served with clams, charred cucumber, and onion, its flavour lifted by a tangy nam yum dressing.
Since opening in August last year, YOUNG has introduced its menu in evolving phases, allowing certain crowd favourites to remain. One such dish is the Beef Gaeng Massaman Curry, featuring 48-hour wagyu ribs slow-cooked in bold, fragrant curry, served with potatoes, and a side of roti paratha.
“In Thailand, massaman curry is also considered a humble breakfast dish,” he shared. “You’ll find it at small street stalls, often served with modest cuts of chicken or meat. What makes it distinctive is the use of fish sauce in the curry base.” And while he works closely with fine ingredients such as wagyu beef, fresh Hokkaido scallops, and tiger prawns (found in their tom yum seafood noodles), Chef Yohans ensures that the flavour remains as close to the original as possible.
“I think the biggest takeaway from Thai culinary culture is that every dish is a national dish for them, no matter where the dish is originally from or the influences they have. I find that approach refreshing,” shared Chef Yohans. “The Thais truly celebrate their food, from street stalls to fine dining. Even if you add wagyu ribs to a curry, or use tom yum in noodles or fried rice, as long as the flavour is right, it’s still embraced. That kind of flexibility and celebration of ingredients feels very similar to how we treat food in Indonesia, too.”
A year in, YOUNG has built a diverse following. There are diners who return for familiar comfort dishes that need no introduction—like their green curry, which they serve with grilled fish. Then there are the more adventurous eaters, drawn in by the lesser-known cuisines and bold, funky flavours. “The response has been really positive,” closed Chef Yohans. “Maybe people can sense that what we’re offering is different—still rooted in Thai cuisine, but not what you typically can find in Jakarta.”
