As with most of the resorts located in Ubud, the biggest draw of the property is the surrounding nature that appears expansive and enveloping all at once. Viceroy Bali is one of those places. Perched above the Petanu Valley, a short drive from Ubud’s teeming centre, the family-owned resort (not to be confused with Viceroy Hotel Group) offers a considered setting and leaves one to settle at their own pace.
The enduring appeal of the valley is something that the Viceroy intuitively understands. It simply offers a “gentle push” through its swimming pools—either by the restaurant or tucked within a private villa—each overlooking the perennially green slope, presenting a straightforward idea on the best way for guests to while away their day.
Combine that with the villas, which, while expansive, feel quietly personal, and the design never distracts from the view. Together, these elements create an atmosphere that feels laid-back and romantic in unison. It’s not surprising that the resort effortlessly attracts couples on honeymoon like bees to flowers.
On mornings that feel like energy at rest, couples can be spotted starting their day early and eagerly in bright, cheery sundresses and linen shirts and shorts. People-watching turns into an activity of its own at Viceroy—from villa to spa, restaurant to pool—and the only itinerary at play is simply good company. To wit, a Korean couple immersed themselves in finding the best selfie angles by the daybed. Servers strike a casual chat with guests during breakfast, not to remind them that the ingredients are local, but opting to talk about the island’s rich history and culture instead.
There’s also an underlying sense that the pace of the resort is shaped by the presence of the Apéritif Restaurant and Pinstripe Bar, both of which welcome public guests. Come evening, one can opt to dress for the occasion for a change and indulge in the degustation dinner over at the Apéritif Restaurant—a grand dining room with European echoes grounded by the culinary direction of Executive Chef Nic Vanderbeeken. His cooking draws equally from local traditions and modern techniques, with his signature Venison Wellington—heightened with rendang sauce—standing as a fitting example: imaginative, precise, and a surprisingly fun manifestation of his Belgian roots and being at home in Indonesia.
Then, there’s the Pinstripe Bar, dimly lit and wood-toned, perfect for staying guests who prefer to end their night with a drink, or two. Being one of the few bars in Ubud that operates late into the night, Pinstripe regularly sees a steady stream of guests even on weekday nights. If one’s idea of vacation at Viceroy is staying put at the resort, then Pinstripe is the best chance to meet some new faces over a nightcap.
Viceroy doesn’t rush you into activities. Yes, a helicopter ride can be arranged. Same goes for the temple tour and a market walk. But, one can also stay put, read by the pool, and enjoy the experiences that are provided within the property. Viceroy takes pride in its aptitude for setting the foundation for a laid-back vacation and merrymaking in equal delight.
In Ubud, time elapses a little differently. The light moves slowly across the valley. Surprise sometimes comes in the form of the view of Mount Agung on a clear, cloudless sky. And Viceroy mirrors this pace. It doesn’t over-promise. It gives you just enough and lets you find your own way into unexpected gratification.
